Saturday : In an hours surf today, I managed to snap my fin out jumping off the rocks, almost got struck by lightning while doing an off the lip, got hammered by big hale stones so had to take cover under my board, but nearly caught hypothermia It was so cold, surfed every wave like a complete
kook and then fell over a slippery rock on the way home. Think my toes broke...
I didn't know whether to laugh or cry so I did both...
Sunday : Fun waves, hardly anybody out, could not fall off my surfboard, didnt get cold, snagged a couple of good photos, put new fins in the board that made it work better. Had the best surf Ive had in ages.
When things go bad, embrace the miss fortune because Karma always seems to balance things out.
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